Ledger |
Attaching a ledger board to the home is generally the first step in installing the deck material. Determine the height at which the ledger should be attached to house by calculating the thickness of the materials between ledger and the final decking. Tack the the ledger board in place, making sure that it is perfectly level. Then drill through the ledger and building, and install bolts. Lag bolts should be two inches longer that the thickness of the ledger board to firmly anchor the deck to the wall. |
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Be sure to use masonry anchors when you are attaching the deck to a brick or concrete wall. |
A deck that is installed at ground level can be framed and cantilevered so as not to be actually attached to the home. Such freestanding decks do not cause rotting. Attaching a deck to a home in such a way so as to prevent water from seeping in is one of the trickiest parts of deck construction. |
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Footings |
A decks support post will need to be anchored to footings. Footings can be pre-cast or poured. Pored footings should be roughly twice the size of the post. The bottom of the footing will need to be below the frost line to prevent shifting, and should come above the ground's surface to protect the wood pillar from water. Some deck builders use adjustable post bases to align and level the deck. |
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Consult your local building codes to determine the kind, size and depth of footing that you will need for your deck. A local deck builder will be familiar with these codes and experienced in the requirements for constructing a strong and well supported deck. |
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Posts |
After the ledger, comes the posts. Posts, like 6x6's, not only provide support for the beams and joists of the deck, but they can also extend through the decking to be part of the railing. In fact, many deck designs are centered around the posts. A custom deck design will sometimes have posts supporting railings, benches and canopy rafters for a covered deck. It is essential that posts be plumb and correctly aligned to keep the deck from twisting. But this is not hard for a deck pro. |
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Pressure Treated Beams |
Next, beams are attached to the posts. A pressure treated 2x10 is an ideal choice. Once a level line is marked on the beams from the ledger the beam can be attached with framing in nails. Ensure that the beam is level. Then pre-drill holes through the post and beam assembly for 1/2" by 10" galvanized carriage bolts, and install the bolts. |
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Attaching Joists |
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Figure 2. |
Joists |
Joists are the next step in deck construction. 2x8 pressure treated joists run parallel to each other and support the final deck floor. Joist can be fixed to the beams with metal joist hangers or by toenailing (oblique nailing) the joists to the beams. Joists can also sit on top of the ledger board and the outer beam (Figure 2). This will require more joists though. The spacing of joists must meet local building codes and be placed according to the deck covering. |
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Decking |
And finally... the decking. Decking boards are generally 2x4 or 2x6 pieces. These need to be installed with care to give a consistent, clean look.
Using spacers will keep the edge gaps consistent. Composite decking requires gaps at the butt joints because the boards swell and shrink with temperature changes. Galvanized nails or screws can be used, although screws are better as they won't pop up the way nails eventually do. |
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Marking the placement of the screws with a template , rather than merely eyeing it, is a fast trick for keeping the screws in line. Some wood decking materials will require predrilling in order to prevent the wood from splitting at the ends. To enhance the wow-factor of your deck the decking can be laid on a diagonal, with a parquet design or in herringbone style. |
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Get professional help building your deck. Our custom deck builders can help you build a cool deck that is both stunning and durable! |
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