With the price of oil overtaking the $100 a barrel mark heating a large home in wintry areas is becoming a major concern in domestic budgeting, in some cases overtaking the mortgage. Old forced-air and baseboard electric systems are being seen as inefficient and wasteful of energy. Heat is often directed where it is not needed or “cold spots” can occur in areas which do not have direct contact with air ducts.

Even at room temperature hard floors – tile, hardwood, linoleum - are possibly the hardest to warm up. And in all rooms, unless there is an airflow system or fans to direct the heated air downward, heated air will stay at the ceiling. Here's a quick test: Take a thermometer reading in your largest room. Now bring in a step ladder and take the temperature at ceiling level. Chances are that you'll notice a substantial difference.

Tile Becomes the Heat Source

Rather than seeing tile as a detriment to heat and comfort tile is now being recognized as a potential part of the home heating system. In fact tile floor is becoming increasingly popular with homeowners because the heating system can be installed underneath the tile thus getting the advantage of direct heat without sacrificing space for ductwork and furnaces.

(Photo courtesy of http://www.muttbaker.com)

Tile, by its very nature - whether porcelain, clay or stone – provides great storage for heat. This has been recorded as far back as the Roman Empire where the the floors of public baths were heated by warm water under the marble tiles. A tiled floor also gives off a steady heat which lingers long after the heat source has been turned off. And the heat need only be applied to the exposed floor areas or ones which are in heavy use so no excess energy is wasted

(Photo courtesy of http://www.muttbaker.com)

Types of Heated Tile Floors

1. Wire Looped:

Wire is affixed to the floor by means of a plastic track. These strips are scored at intervals to allow the wire to be set in. Thinset – mortar – is then applied with a trowel to cover the wires. When this dries the tile is put down over the thinset with mastic and grouted as in a normal tile installation. The total difference in the floor height in a minimum of ¼ “ depending on how much of a base you want for the tiles. The more mortar the more heat storage.

(Photo courtesy of http://www.muttbaker.com)

2. Wire Mats

Mats have the wire already suspended in a plastic or fiberglass webbing and can be rolled out into the area and embedded into the thinset. It is an easier way of putting down the electric wiring and gives the same benefit.

(Photo courtesy of http://www.muttbaker.com)

3. Hydronic Heating

Hydronic radiant floor heating systems use a central boiler to heat up hot water and a pump to circulate the hot water in plastic pipes installed in a concrete slab. The pipes carry heated water that conduct warmth to the surface of the floor where it heats the room. Separated radiant heat zones are controlled by a thermostat in each room which activates a valve to distribute the flow of warm water to the piping within each zone.

Any type of tile can be used over the heating systems. Of course the thicker the tile the longer the heat lasts. This also works conversely because it will take longer to heat up from a cold start. However, Flooring.com states that a thin electric mat installed in thinset cement or self-leveling cement, controlled by a timer-thermostat with an in-floor sensor will cost $500-to-$600 for an average size bathroom and it will operate on less than 10 cents a day of electricity.