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Tree Spading - Giving Trees a New Home
by Lisa VandenDool

One of the challenges with new landscaping is that its appearance can lack maturity.

Tree spading allows landscape contractors to instantly create a design that has a mature appearance. The ability to transplant larger trees has an especially practical application in freshly built sub-division developments and other new home construction. Moving existing trees to a new location on a property also provides the much needed space for an addition, a garage, or an improved landscape design. Additionally, it can save the life of tree that may otherwise be cut down.

 
Figure #1
Figure #2
Figure #3
The Hole was Dug for the Tree by the Tree Spade.
The Crimson King Maple Tree is Positioned over the Hole.
The Diaper is taken of the Spade Before Lowering the Tree.

Figure #1: The hole for the tree was dug with the tree spade so that the plug containing the tree's root ball will fit.

Figure #2: The tree, a Crimson King Norway Maple (Acer Platanoides), is positioned over the hole after the hole is well watered.

Figure #3: The tarp or "diaper", which was used to prevent soil loss during transport, is removed, the extra soil being allowed to fall in and along the hole.

 
Figure #4
Figure #5
Figure#6
The Tree is Lowered into the Hole.
The Blades of the Tree Spade are Lifted.
The Tree is now resting in the Hole.

Figure #4: The operator hydraulically lowers the blades containing the root ball of the tree into the hole.

Figure #5: The blades are carefully and slowly lifted. The operator pauses to release the branches of the tree from the arms of the blades.

Figure #6: The frame and have now released the tree and the plug is visible.

 
Figure #7
Figure #8
Figure #9
The Blades are Opened and Tree Spade Backs Away from the Tree.
The Plug should be Resting 2 to 3 Inches Above the Ground.
Viola! The Tree is Planted.

Figure #7: The drawn blades are then opened, allowing the tree spade truck to back up away from the tree.

Figure #8: To allow for settling, the tree and its plug are planted 2" or 3" above the surrounding ground surface.

Figure #9: Viola! The tree is now planted and is standing on its own. The tree spade, as seen in the background, is closing its blades.

 
Figure #10
Figure #11
Once Planted the Tree is Staked, Diked and Mulched Until the Roots are Established.
These Two Evergreens were Spaded in to Provide a Natural Screen.

Figure #10: This Crimson King Maple, that was spaded in near an existing willow at the back of the property, is in much better proportion than a smaller, juvenile tree would be. Once spaded in a tree should be staked, diked and mulched. Staking the tree serves to stabilize the tree until the roots are established. A dike around the soil ball prevents erosion and aids in retaining water. Mulch reduces soil erosion, aids in moisture retention, minimizes weed competition and prevents mower damage. When the tree has become well-rooted these can be removed.

Figure #11: These two evergreens were spaded in to provide a natural screen between the homeowner's backyard and their neighbor's.

Further Tree Spading Tips:

  • Consult a landscape designer or an arborist about design, species and site considerations. Access to your property, for example, should be analyzed by your professional landscape contractor. Additionally, spading of larger trees should only be done at certain times of the year depending on the species and the shear size of a tree.
  • Call the municipality to locate any underground wires or utilities before you dig.
  • Hire a Tree Spading Company or a professional Landscaping Contractor.
  • Transplanting shocks the tree; consult your landscaper about each tree's specific watering and care requirements.
  • Under watering can cause water stress and make a tree prone to disease, insect damage and limbing.
  • Over watering can contribute to root rot due to bacteria and fungi.
Tree Spading gives new homes a tree, and trees a new home.
 
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